The French have their bistros, Singaporeans have our Tze Char stalls. When we want comfort food, when we want to eat well, and not spend that much, we turn to the Tze Chars. They cut out the frills, and just focus on what matters. The food.
For the staff, it must be incredibly hard work. Sunday night tends to be a super peak, when Tze Char kitchens are virtual war zones, with chefs drenched, fighting a mountain of orders. With their unique niche, these stalls can survive in the most unlikely places. Bao Bao, at Kranji Way, is a prime example.
The setting
It feels like Malaysia, which the place is close to. Being right next to Kranji reservoir, nice views are possible at sunset.
However, this is no loafy countryclub cafe. It’s actually located on the premises of Central Granite Industries, and is right in the Sungei Kadut industrial area. Looking at the place, its hard to imagine one can eat well.
Trucks will ramble pass as you enjoy your beer, and many drivers do stop for dinner. In the bare earth carpark, you will find dust-coated tipper trucks, and shiny Mercedes parked beside them. The bosses of the nearby industries know of this rustic gem.
The food
The Tze Char classics are all spot-on. They will often recommend the “Dong Po” pork – stewed pork belly – which is very nice. The pork is tender, with skin which melts in the mouth and a good balance of fat. The sauce is rich and delicious.
They also do a roasted chicken dish which I love. The skin is paper thin, very crispy, and the meat moist and tender. It’s served with a tangy, dark sauce, which they lay on the bottom of the plate to preserve the crispy skin.
Other dishes I have tried include salted egg prawns, and the fabulous deep fried fish at the top of this post.
The service is casual but efficient. The stall serves a lot of regulars and the atmosphere is laid back. You want to order another beer! The owners have been here for eight years, and have evidently found their corner of the world. Tugged away from high rents and the pressures of the city, the chefs experiment regularly and seem proud of their work. Its worthwhile to ask what specials they have when you visit. The staff were totally amused (and puzzled) by my photo request.
I have been here many times, and never been disappointed. Yes, the place has its rough edges. However, on an evening when I am too tired to cook, when the malls are crowded with the maddening crowds, this is the place I seek comfort for my soul and stomach.
Getting there
There is no signboard. Bao Bao is located within the premises of Central Granite Industries on 30, Kranji Way, Singapore 739440. The place can be hard to find. They are located directly east of the dam, on the north side of the road. Try to look out for a row of colored florescent lights. If unlike me, you actually wash your car, you will want to use the public carpark closer to the dam, next to the place.
Give it a try, cross the bridge, and step back in time.
Stall details :
Bao Bao Food, 30, Kranji Way, Singapore 739440. Open daily for dinner, lunch Monday to Saturday.